Agasthyaarkoodam wasn’t new to us, but the
option truly odd. I remember it was raining heavily, even while our plot for
the crazy trek was under incubation. We were sure that the authorities would
turn down our request, owing to the extreme climate conditions and hence
planned a multi headed approach, with all the resources we had in the dept. And
finally, at the outbreak of two sunny days at a stretch, we were permitted to
hike. Thus five of us presented ourselves at the Bonaccord picket post, with
all anxieties and fears suppressed, on a pleasant morning, with the sun shining
at its best.
We were allotted a three member team, to guide and assist,
foreseeing the troubles ahead, perhaps. Thus eight of us commenced the
expedition, which turned out to be the most adventurous, so far in my life.
A ‘warm’
welcome from leach brigade was well expected, and we weren’t annoyed, but hard
set to fight. Couldn’t defend much longer, and I found many among us turning
‘Mahatmas’, preaching ‘Ahimsa’, to our opponents’ delight. The initial stretch
didn’t pose much difficulty and could reach up to the tender flow of Karamana
River, in just an hour.
Crossed the flow and the walk went leisurely, as the
sector was dry comparatively, with less disturbance from the sucker folk. Thus
it took another hour for the Vazhapeendi river to be audible. Flows were pretty
rich, indicating recent down pours, but the day was sunny and hot, as if to
spoil our intentions. Distant grass hillocks and canopies, which we have to
cover before light fades, came into view, and people paced up.
Last of the
mighty flows on the way, Attayar river, was in sight by around 12.30 and it was
lunch break. Dry chapattis and pickle made a good combo, of course with added
magic of Attayar flow.
Post lunch session commenced in half an hour,
along the beautiful patch of grass hillocks of the Bharathappuli sector and the
torching sun above, forced us to halt at almost all the springs along our trek
path.
Beauty of the region is sure to slow you down and the sight of the
treacherous ‘ Ezhu madakku theri ’ aka “Muttidichan theri ‘ falls yet another
deterrent. Literarily, the name indicates the difficulty in negotiating the
terrain and we had the bonus of slippery, together with leach menace.
While
clearing this stretch, to be frank, I was happy that rain kept away. The last
stretch of the day, along level patch, ended at the base camp at Athirumala,
and it was just 4 in the evening - pretty early. While we were back after a dip
in the nearby stream, a steaming dish of Tapioca was waiting to be raided over.
While the
majority opted a nap, I sat out watching the towering mount of Agastyarkoodam, atop
which lies our destination.
As I watched, dark clouds gathered from the corners
all of a sudden and broke down, showering cats and dogs.
While having dinner –
simple porridge – amidst heavy down pour, we decided to give a try to the
extent possible, the next morning, even if the guides hesitate to accompany.
And it rained all the night.
Woke up
into a cloudy and dark morning and got ready for the hike by 8 AM. Two
youngsters among our guides were to accompany us, while the other stood back to
cook our meals.
Within half an hour we knew, why the experienced lot objected,
for the overgrowth had hidden the track, leaches dozen a step, rocky terrain
slippery, mist veiled vision and it started drizzling, to add to the woe.
One among our guides led, sickling the way out
of reed growth, and we followed at a distance, crawling and bleeding.
Cleared the reed
patch and were at the base of Pongalappaara, a flat topped rocky mount, by
around 10 AM. Situation worsened further, mist thickened, thinning vision and
the downpour strengthened.
Our guides briefed us on the danger in hiking the
steep rocky cliffs ahead, with running water beneath your feet, and left it to
us to decide. The decision was unanimous – will move on until it’s impossible.
The rest of the path alternates between
patches of shola woods and steep bare rocks. The wooded patch wasn’t a thing of
worry, as we were that friendly with leaches, by then, but the other part was
terrible.
Decided to be on bare foot, but even that couldn’t help at places. I
got stuck amidst such a climb, and would have slipped to the bottom, if help,
as a chain of my friends, wouldn’t have arrived in time. Despite this torture
and agony, it’s worth a mention that a flower of beauty or a piece of action
wasn’t deprived of a camera exposure, recording it to keep us thrilled for
long.
Confidence grew
with each conquer, and the folk yelled as we reached the last stretch of rope
climb, for we knew the apex is close.
Thus by half past twelve, we were at the
abode of the healer sage ‘Agasthya’, with no wounds to be healed. The idol of
the ‘dwarf sage’, stood ruling the world beneath, within the canopy resisting
the howling wind, all soaked in offerings of pilgrims, who climb up to this
height of 1800 + metres, for a blissful moment.
Bliss, reason for which may be
a variant, is what I experienced too, at this misty height.
I would like to
end this travel experience here, as I think the return journey is not worth a
description, if not for the sighting of a rear bird – The Forest Eagle Owl –
and the fall I had from a height, while trying for a better shot of the bird,
sustaining minor injuries.
And after
all, I realize that it wasn’t a journey with an aim but the journey was the
aim.
